Category Archives: Isle of Man

France again (for a few weeks!)

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We got the work done on the house in Peel and ended up with a stripy stair carpet like a beach towel! (M-D can get a bit daring when the mood hits her!). Mind you, it suits the theme of the house which is intentionally “seaside” (we’re only three minutes walk from the beach). All the bedroom floors are now down to the original pine boards with a grey stain and a coat or two of matt sealer, so hopefully we can have a peaceful summer without too much disruption!

The trip back to France was uneventful. Since we came by car, we had two boat trips and a couple of long drives, but it gives us the chance to import and export stuff that’s not available in the other country. For example, when going from France to the Isle of Man, we took lots of Saucisson Sec because my mate Ken eats it till he bursts! We also took a couple of nice Jambon de Bayonne (an air dried salted ham that takes its name from the ancient port city of Bayonne in the far South West of France). In addition, there were lots of easy-to-find cooking ingredients and tins like Confit de Canard (prepared in a centuries-old process of preservation that consists of salt curing duck thighs and then poaching them in their own fat). We also took Foie Gras which is a fraction of the price in France than in GB. We get it delivered (along with the Confit de Canard) by Godard, an excellent producer in the South-West of France.

Coming back to France, we transport interesting stuff like Manx Kippers from Moore’s Kipper factory the last remaining traditional kipper curers. Moore’s produce traditional, oak fired, chimney smoked Manx kippers that taste like nothing else you will ever taste – 100% delicious (partucularly with Warm Potato Salad). We also bring curiosities for the family like Jelly Babies, Caramac, Chocolate Oranges and Custard – none of which are available in France.

So now our French grandchildren, Clémence and Eléonore, are impatiently waiting for a visit to The Island. We just booked their flights for mid April, so we’ll only be here in France for about four weeks before heading back! They’ll be expecting all the non-French lunch ingredients (like Pork Pie, Scotch Egg, Scallions etc.). Undoubtedly they will also hold us ransom for a visit to the Chinese Restaurant. In France, Chinese restaurants serve food that is more Vietnamese than anything else (Vietnam being a former French colony). So to get the more aromatic Cantonese food is a rare treat for our French visitors.

Last night, I had no doubt we were back in France. For dinner we had dozen oysters each with Pain Poilâne bread and salted butter followed by strawberries and cream. All washed down with a glass or two of chilled Edelzwicker from Alsace. Oysters in GB are at least twice the price than here (and generally don’t have the same quality and succulent taste). So there’s good and bad on both sides of the Channel. We’re fortunate in being able to get the best of both worlds… long may it last!

Pain Poilâne, incidentally, is produced in the Latin Quarter of Paris where it is sold at the original boulangerie on rue du Cherche-Midi. The worldwide demand for Poilâne bread is met in a facility located in Bièvres which produces around 15,000 loaves per day in 24 wood-burning ovens that are exact replicas of the ovens used at the Paris locations. These loaves are shipped worldwide – but it’s lovely getting the bread fresh the same day!

One day, Ramsey Bakery’s finest sliced dough – the next, proper bread using hand-crafted stone-ground flour, natural fermentation and a wood-fired oven. One day, the finest kippers in the universe, the next, hardly-smoked commercial herring in shrink-wrapped sauce!! Just kidding, but it does demonstrate how lucky we are to be able to reap the best of both.

The Rock awaits us

We’re heading back to The Isle of Man in a few days. We’ll be there for a couple of months, but we probably won’t get much relaxation! We bought a three story Victorian town house in August 2011 and it came complete with ivory-coloured fluffy carpets throughout! We have replaced the ground floor with parquet but the stairs and two floors of bedrooms still need to have something done to get rid of the ghastly dust trap underfoot! Our plan is to dump the carpets, strip the pine boards back to original state, tint them just to help the colour a little, then apply a matt varnish. On the stairs and landings, we’ll get new carpet runners and paint the edges white (a bit like it would have been originally except maybe the colour).

When we looked at the cost of hiring an industrial sander, we found it was about £55 a day (plus another £45 for the edging sander). So we took a look on eBay and found we could buy both for about £600. If we sell them again for a loss at the end of the job it still will have only cost about £100 in total, so that seemed like the way to go. The edging sander was OK in the post, but the main sander is big and heavy and would need a courier.

Unfortunately, getting goods delivered to The Isle of Man is like smuggling drugs into Indonesia … it’s a death sentence! It’s all to do with the fact there’s a boat trip needed between mainland UK and The Island. So we asked my niece, Sally, and her husband, Danny, who live in Crewe in Cheshire, if they could take delivery and we would pick it up as we passed by on our way to the ferry. (“Passing by” involves spending the night there – which we often do when we take the car)

Sally and Danny used to live in splendid anonymity until a couple of months ago when Danny was imprisoned for having a gun in his possession… er, he’s an SAS Sergeant with an impeccable history and the whole world got behind him and forced a quick legal appeal where the sentence was reduced to a lighter suspended sentence – and they will be appealing the actual guilty verdict later this month. Without going into the whole story here, it’s enough to say that they are going through a really tough time at the moment and Danny is at home just waiting for justice to take its course.

What do Sally and Danny have to do with the story of my sander? Well the guy I bought it from agreed to deliver to Crewe and asked for the name and address. When I said the name, he said, “Haven’t I heard that somewhere recently?”, so I reminded him of the furor in the national press about Danny’s shameful imprisonment.

I though he had had a heart attack at the other end!

“But what happens if the sander doesn’t work?” he asked.

I replied (half-joking), “It better had, or Danny will come and sort you out!”

Had he known Danny, he wouldn’t have worried! He’s truly one of the nicest, most level-headed guys you could ever hope to meet! In fact, of course, he did meet him a couple of days later when he delivered the sander, and they shared a cup of tea and a joke together!

Hand and Trumpet, CheshireWhat has all this got to do with food … er not a lot except that, when we get to Crewe, we will go and eat in the evening at The Hand and Trumpet which is a great little gastro pub serving decent quality pub grub at decent prices. If you get an opportunity, it’s worth stopping by.

And finally, I just added a recipe to the site to make your own Smoked Salmon (without the smoke, of course!). It’s a great little recipe that M-D’s daughter, Muriel, passed on to us and it is stupidly simple. So not you can enjoy high quality smoked salmon at exceptional prices with your very own Smoked Salmon Without The Smoke

Wish us luck with the floors!

Summer visitors to try out British food

Oh Bloody Hell – is it really 4½ months since I last posted to this blog. How time flies when you’re having fun!! During that time, we returned to France for a couple of months then went back again to The Isle of Man for a couple of months. Now we are back in France again… must be Sunday!

We had an interesting summer on the Isle of Man with three lots of visitors from France. First of all there was Pierre and Claude who stayed with us for a week (and fitted in a year’s worth of sightseeing!). There are so many curiosities to see on The Isle of Man for the first time visitor. One that amused Pierre and Claude was the Great Union Camera Obscura on Douglas Head (opened in the 1890s and is one of only a tiny handful left in the British Isles.)… I’m the lazy one with his hands in his pockets!

Of course, food is never far from the minds of French people, so we introduced them to a typical British picnic (complete with table and chairs). This time, I’m the taller one with the wine in his hand!! Included in the picnic were such British delicacies as Scotch Egg, Melton Mowbray pork pie and also we served radishes as part of a salad, which is not in the French culture (they eat them on their own as a starter, with salt and butter). Surprisingly, we also discovered that your humble Heinz Salad Cream went down a treat, since there seems to be no equivalent in France – the nearest being mayonaisse.

Harbour Lights - Port St. MaryWe were also pleasantly surpised by the warm reception our guests gave to the local eating places. The French can be a little snooty about their food, so we weren’t quite sure what sort of reception basic British “grub” would get. Our minds were put at rest after a delightful lunch at The Harbour Lights in Port St. Mary (I’m the one examining what I eat before shovelling it down!)

Basic British Picnic GrubOur next arrivals were M-D’s cousin, Anne-Marie, and her husband, Jean. They stopped with us for a little under one week since they were then heading off for a hiking holiday in Scotland. Again, they seemed to appreciate basic British “picnic grub” like the pork pie and Scotch egg, We also introduced them the delights of haggis neaps and tatties, before their Scottish visit, so they could decide whether or not they liked it (I think the jury is still out on that one!)

Manx Country CottageFor Jean and Anne-Marie, I think the attraction of The Isle of Man was simply the delightful country cottages and quaint streets of the old fishing village of Peel. Naturally, they enjoyed seeing all the other natural attractions the island has to offer (like Loaghtan sheep and Manx cats) but, being lovers of fish (to eat, of course) they thoroughly enjoyed trying out the famous Manx Kippers which are smoked by Moore’s Manx Kippers less than a mile from where we live. Moore’s is the last of the traditional oak-smoked curing yards and the flavour just oozes out of their products.

Isle of Man Steam RailwayOur final guests of the summer were M-D’s sister, Christine, and her younger son, Corentin. Christine has visited The Island before but, for Corentin, it was his first time, so we naturally did all the “tourist” bits like the electric trams, the Great Laxey Wheel, The Isle of Man Steam Railway. the horse trams, and everything else than contributes to making the Isle of Man a unique place to live and work.

The Hop GardenDuring their stay, we celebrated Christine’s birthday with a visit to our favourite restaurant on the island, The Abbey whose food and attention to detail was, as always, immaculate. Regrettably, they had used up all their stock of 2004 Chateaux Lyonnat Saint Emilion but, fortunately, they had a slightly younger version of the same wine, and it was a dream! We also visited a couple of “regular” haunts like The Hop Garden (pictured above) which serves really good quality “pub grub” in delightful surroundings.

And finally, M-D and I had a couple of weeks to recouperate from a hectic schedule of sightseeing! After which, a couple of quick flights and we are back in France, for the winter. We’re lucky, because my brother Steve lives close to the house on the Isle of Man so keeps an eye on it for us while we’re away. Maybe, one day, we can persuade him to visit France where we can play host to some of the delights that France has to offer.

Almost time to leave ‘The Rock’ again

How time flies. It only seems like yesterday that we were unpacking our loaded car having arrived from France. Now we are planning loading all the stuff we are taking back and catching the ferry to UK and on to France until June.

When we come from France we bring wine (wouldn’t you know it), tins of things like cassoulet, confit, snails (yes- honest!) and lot of other interesting goodies that you can’t easily get in UK. When we go back to France from The Isle of Man, we take stuff you can’t get in France like party poppers, custard, haggis and jelly beans! Yeah – I know – we’re real adventurous rascals, aren’t we!

While we’ve been here this time, we’ve had two or three interesting meals at home with friends and relatives including Cubes of Veal with Spicebread Sauce, snails (which we brought over with us and packed into the shells ourselves, along with garlic butter and parsley and, tonight, since my niece, Sally and her husband, Danny, are over for a few days, we’ll be having one of my regular favourites, Filet Mignon (Tenderloin of Pork) with Sage and Rosemary.

Abbey Restaurant, Rushen Abbey, Isle of Man
Abbey Restaurant, Rushen Abbey, Isle of Man

Marie-Danielle and I also managed to fit in a visit to The Abbey Restaurant at Rushen Abbey where I enjoyed some amazing Grilled Manx king scallops in hazelnut butter as a starter, then both of us had Chicken Ballontine with dauphinois potatoes, oyster mushroom cream and cranberry sauce. All this, washed down with a bottle of their amazing 2004 Chateaux Lyonnat Saint Emilion. I don’t know how much longer their stocks will last, but, boy, is that a great wine or is that a great wine!

The other things we discovered on this visit were two great local restaurants. One was a Chinese – The Jade Harbour Restaurant overlooking the marina where the food was excellent, the service was spot-on and the prices were right. The other was an Indian – The Royal India – in the little market place just down the road from where we live. Small (only about 30 covers) but clean, friendly, well-priced and with excellent Indain cuisine, this little gem is one we have revisited twice already!

So now, we are looking forward to being back in France so we can visit The Happy Sushi and La Petite Rôtisserie – our two “canteens” that we make plenty of use of! Wish us “Bon Voyage!”

Life’s never too hectic for food!

It’s almost two months since I lasted posted a blog entry. That’s not because I’m being lazy, it’s just that the world won’t wait for me to catch up!

We moved from France to the Isle of Man in early October (we dodge from once country to the other every couple of months). This time we came by car (we often fly) and loaded up with all the ‘goodies’ that you can only get in France – like fabulous French wines at a fraction of the price in UK.

Isle of Man houseHowever, one of the main reasons for spending some time on “The Island” at this time of year was to do some work on our new house (it’s 120 years old, but it’s new to us!). The builder did a great job of renovation (take a bow Jason!) but everybody personalizes their homes so there were lights to buy and fix, bathroom fittings to choose and fix, curtains to choose, additional furniture to buy, pictures and paintings to hang, additional electrical sockets to wire in, plus, plus, plus…. well you get the picture anyway! And that’s my excuse for not having made a blog post for two months!!

At least we found the time to pay a visit to a couple of our favourite Island restaurants. First of all, we went with my brother and sister-in-law to The Abbey Restaurant near Ballasalla. M-D and I had been before, but for Steve and Jeanette it was their first visit. So let me give you the good news first… the meal was excellent. We all enjoyed quality food in quality surroundings. The bad news was that they had a party of 18 dining that night, and the morons decided to quaff drinks at the bar for over half-an-hour before sitting at their table in another room. For those of us seated near the bar, it was a disaster – but one that the staff could easily have avoided if they had politely asked the cretins to sit down and take their drinks at their table.

Don’t let this put you off going there because, as I say, the food and the surroundings are great (and, in fact, we even stumbled across a magnum of St Emilion at a very reasonable price). However, you may feel it worthwhile, when booking, to ask fo a table away from the bar… it will save disappointment later.

The other restaurant M-D and I went to was The Majestic Chinese Restaurant (called The Water Margin under previous owners) overlooking the sea in Onchan. When we learned that the previous owners were leaving, we were truly disappointed because their standards were high and the food (mostly Cantonese) was excellent. However, the new owners have maintained the previous high standards, so our disappointment has been reduced! Sure, there have been some changes (that’s natural) but essentially the restaurant continues to serve great Chinese food at a sensible price. “The Majestic” is perched on top of a headland, overlooking the 2 mile sweep of Douglas bay, so try asking for a window table when you book – the evening view is very special.

And talking about Chinese restaurants, we have discovered a small one not 400 yards from our home. We’ve not tried it yet, but we certainly will (and I’ll let you know how it goes). One of the things we have discovered over the years is to never be put off by the size of a restaurant. Often there are true gems to be found hidden away in small side streets and we’re hoping this will prove to be one of them.

One of the pleasures of being on The Isle of Man is the lamb! The butcher that we use is A1 BUTCHERS, 7 Snaefell Road, Willaston, Douglas (01624.627200) and they serve only Manx lamb that has grazed on the heather-covered hills, adding a light, delicate flavour to the meat.

Stewey and Tommy sell the finest lamb chops we have ever tasted (they also do a great line in cooked ham, but that’s another story!). The lamb chops are juicy, tender, full of flavour and we have yet to find their equal. Just cook in a frying pan with a few cloves of garlic until they are browned on the outside and pink in the middle (about 6-7 minutes)… truly a delight.

Peel castle across the baySo we have one more month on ‘The Island’ before heading back to France for Christmas and the New Year. Right at the moment (despite what you see on the photo) the sun is shining, the sky is blue and I reckon it’s time for a nice walk over the top of the cliff with a view of Peel bay and castle … sometimes I think we are very lucky people!