Tag Archives: food

Oysters, Cucumber, Smoked Salmon Sandwiches and a smile!

OystersI just opened a couple of dozen oysters, which is one of our frequent Sunday evening treats when we’re in France (they’re too darn expensive in UK!) and, while I was doing so, I was smiling to myself about some fond memories of my childhood and, in particular, my mother. Before going into the kitchen to open the oysters, I had added a menu to NeedARecipe for Smoked Salmon and Herb Sandwiches. Okay, I know it doesn’t sound like a recipe but, as far as I’m concerned, anything that involves the preparation of food is fair game to be added to the site since I try to cater for absolute beginners as well as more seasoned cooks.

Smoked Salmon and Herb SandwichesAs I was writing the Smoked Salmon and Herb Sandwiches recipe, I pointed out how I had been raised in a vicarage so knew all about the famous cucumber sandwiches (yes, they really did exist!). I also pointed out that, since the art of food is as much presentation as it is taste, it was important to remove the crusts and cut the sandwiches into diagonals.

I remember as a child, the Mothers Union (or whatever they were) would gather once a week in the vicarage (a huge, draughty place that was knocked down after we left the parish!) for hymn-singing and sandwiches. The area was desperately poor so, for many, the temptation was probably more the sandwiches than the hope of redemption!

And my parents were far from wealthy, so the sandwiches really were filled with cucumber. However, my mother always made a point of trimming off the crusts and cutting them diagonally into four. The ladies of the parish (who were used to making great doorsteps for their men who worked in the nearby factories) were convinced they were being treated like royalty, even though they were only eating cucumber!

I also got to thinking about my mother and smoked salmon (the sandwiches were the link!)…

As my mother aged, she was less able to look after herself. Fiercly independent right to the end, she hated the idea of going into a retirement home but it was clear she was having problems coping. In particular, she was eating very little because, due to a heart condition, the effort of preparing food was just too much for her. At the time, I was working throughout Europe as Business Analyst for a US Corporation but I was earning more than my salary from the internet. So I talked with M-D (my very understanding wife) and decided to finish with my job and spend time helping my Mum. So I commuted on an almost monthly basis between France and The Isle of Man (a few weeks in France then a few weeks on The Isle of Man).

That’s the background!

One fine day, while I was on The Isle of Man, I collapsed and was rushed to hospital with pneumonia. A few days later, M-D came over from France and, because she’s a doctor, the hospital let me out into her care. So we went back “home” (my mother’s house) and settled in for a few days before returning to France to allow me to convalese.

When I had been whisked away, I knew more or less what was in the fridge. When I got back, the only thing to have been touched was some smoked salmon (now you see the link). And only one slice was missing, which meant that, during five days, other than some toast for breakfast, all my mother had eaten was a slice of smoked salmon. I guess you can understand why we felt she needed some help!

But here’s the rub… my mother had always said she didn’t like smoked salmon! So when I asked her about it, she replied that she thought she would try it out… but she still didn’t like it! Fine except that, the following morning, the whole pack was gone. The empty package was in the trash, but no sign of the salmon. So again I asked mother what had happened. “Oh,” she said, happy as anything, “I fed it to the seagulls!”

We couldn’t help laughing. In fact, we were convinced after that that there were even more seagulls than usual perched on the fence waiting to be fed. It must have seemed like a 5-star hotel to them!

What was the point of the story? None at all… just a memory that made me smile while I was opening oysters! Funny how food does that to you!!

2011 ends on Oysters, Veal and Christmas Pudding – sounds good to me!

On New Years Eve, M-D (my wife), her sister their two cousins and their partners (and myself) sat down to a typical French evening meal (started at 8pm and finished at 3am!) and, somewhere along the way (after the oysters and smoked salmon) we ate Cubes of Veal with Spicebread Sauce accompanied by Cauliflower Cheese and Purple Majesty potatoes. And it was truly delicious.

The sauce relies on the addition of Pain d’Épice (Spice Bread). You can use my own recipe for the Pain d’Épice (Spice Bread) or, if you don’t want to go to the trouble of making it yourself, you can use ready made Jamaica Ginger Cake or Ginger Loaf Cake. Your own home-made tastes much better but sometimes you must trade convenience for taste!

One of the secrets of cooking to entertain guests is to do as much preparation as possible beforehand. For the oysters, it was no problem, I simply opened them (60 of them!) half an hour before the meal. This works perfectly because they are best left for a little while to produce more water. It adds to their flavour. The smoked salmon and jumbo prawns came from a specialist shop just down the road, where they smoke their own produce, so the quality was truly excellent (good, firm, Scottish salmon). Naturally, cold seafood requires no further preparation… only a nice presentation and a good bottle of dry white wine (like the Bel Air Quincy that we served).

So the main course needed to be something that took very little cooking and that could mostly be prepared in advance. The veal cooked while we ate the oysters and the sauce was prepared before our guests arrived, so Cubes of Veal with Spicebread Sauce is an ideal dish for entertaining.

After half an hour of madness with New Year party poppers and various other lunatic activities, we cleared the rubbish off the table and sat down to fresh salad leaves in a vinagrette and a great selection of French cheeses, including one of my favourites – Langres from the east of France. We continued with the red wine we had served with the main course (a Samur Champigny from Domaine des Roches Neuves)

And then came our “pièce de résistance” … Christmas Pudding flamed in Brandy (well, Cognac, actually!!). A “pièce de résistance” is defined as a creation that defies orthodox or common conventions and practices, thereby making it unique and special. So you may be wondering what gives me the right to refer to a common or garden Christmas Pudding from our local supermarket on The Isle of Man as a “pièce de résistance”. Well, quite simply, we have fun serving our French family and friends with typical British dishes that they have probably never tasted before, just as we have fun serving typically French food to our friends and family on The isle of Man. It’s easy for us since we travel backwards and forwards between the two quite frequently, and can bring food products with us as we travel.

Just as we introduced our French family to Haggis, Neeps and Tatties a few days ago, and then came up with traditional Christmas Cake the following day, so we introduced M-D’s sister and cousins to Christmas Pudding about which they had heard and read a lot of rubbish. In fact, in small portions, Christmas Pud is an excellent dessert, served either with custard or cream. The “problem” in Britain is that, on Christmas Day, folk heap their plates with turkey, chipolatas, stuffing, carrots, spouts, peas, three sorts of potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and gravy, then immediately force down a huge helping of Christmas Pudding – and all in the space of one hour. Following French tradition, we served smaller courses, interspersed with convivial conversation (and some excellent wines) and the Christmas Pudding was served (in smaller portions) at about 1:00a.m. – five hours after we started on our oysters. So the body has plenty of time to digest the food before loading up with more!

And so impressed were M-D’s cousins with the Christmas Pudding that one pair asked if they could take home what was left for the following day! Now that’s what you call ‘seeing the light’! No more talk of crap British food from that quarter! I love it when a plan comes together!

And finally, just a little footnote, having mentioned Haggis, Neeps and Tatties, if you read my post of 25th December, you’ll see that we brought a little sunshine into the lives of my daughter-in-law and her husband by serving this traditional Scottish dish to them… and they loved it. In fact, so much so that we plan going to their home this coming weekend to celebrate a birthday (no, I’m NOT going to tell you how young I am!!). Muriel (my daughter-in-law) has asked me to bring the haggis that she knows is living in our freezer, so she can serve Haggis, Neeps and tatties as a starter too! Again, it’s a St. Paul on the road to Damascus moment!

Have a GREAT 2012!

What do you eat after Christmas?

The age-old question, “What to eat after Christmas” has a somewhat unpredictable answer in our house! If you read my previous post, you’ll see that we have made thorough pigs of ourselves the past few days, so you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s time for us to ease back a bit and let nature sort out the overload. However, nature didn’t take into account the fact that none of us could be bothered to don socks and shoes and go to the shops for something to eat tonight.

Yesterday, my sister-in-law’s sons polished off most of the left-overs before jumping on their trains and heading home, so yesterday evening was a nice simple vegetable soup. Which, today, leaves us with the question of what to eat. Lunch isn’t a problem since we have some nice cooked ham in the fridge, along with a few leaves of lettuce, we’ll be fine. Dinner this evening, however, poses more problematical logistical issues – i.e. no-one wants to go shopping for something to eat!

Obvious answer… the freezer cabinet! And what did I spy, peeping at me from under a pack of Manx kippers? …. Probably one of the most delightful beef recipes ever – Daube Provençale!

It wouldn’t be an understatement to say that I have a passion for Daube (it’s pronounced slightly more towards “Dobe” than “Daub”) so the idea of finishing off the old fashioned vegetable mix that I prepared yesterday (Purple Majesty potatoes, parsnips, green Romanesco Cauliflower and carrots), along with a good old-fashioned recipe like Daube appeals to my natural instincts (and to my unapologetic stomach!)

So here we go again… the table is already laid!! Happy Christmas Graham!!

Life’s never too hectic for food!

It’s almost two months since I lasted posted a blog entry. That’s not because I’m being lazy, it’s just that the world won’t wait for me to catch up!

We moved from France to the Isle of Man in early October (we dodge from once country to the other every couple of months). This time we came by car (we often fly) and loaded up with all the ‘goodies’ that you can only get in France – like fabulous French wines at a fraction of the price in UK.

Isle of Man houseHowever, one of the main reasons for spending some time on “The Island” at this time of year was to do some work on our new house (it’s 120 years old, but it’s new to us!). The builder did a great job of renovation (take a bow Jason!) but everybody personalizes their homes so there were lights to buy and fix, bathroom fittings to choose and fix, curtains to choose, additional furniture to buy, pictures and paintings to hang, additional electrical sockets to wire in, plus, plus, plus…. well you get the picture anyway! And that’s my excuse for not having made a blog post for two months!!

At least we found the time to pay a visit to a couple of our favourite Island restaurants. First of all, we went with my brother and sister-in-law to The Abbey Restaurant near Ballasalla. M-D and I had been before, but for Steve and Jeanette it was their first visit. So let me give you the good news first… the meal was excellent. We all enjoyed quality food in quality surroundings. The bad news was that they had a party of 18 dining that night, and the morons decided to quaff drinks at the bar for over half-an-hour before sitting at their table in another room. For those of us seated near the bar, it was a disaster – but one that the staff could easily have avoided if they had politely asked the cretins to sit down and take their drinks at their table.

Don’t let this put you off going there because, as I say, the food and the surroundings are great (and, in fact, we even stumbled across a magnum of St Emilion at a very reasonable price). However, you may feel it worthwhile, when booking, to ask fo a table away from the bar… it will save disappointment later.

The other restaurant M-D and I went to was The Majestic Chinese Restaurant (called The Water Margin under previous owners) overlooking the sea in Onchan. When we learned that the previous owners were leaving, we were truly disappointed because their standards were high and the food (mostly Cantonese) was excellent. However, the new owners have maintained the previous high standards, so our disappointment has been reduced! Sure, there have been some changes (that’s natural) but essentially the restaurant continues to serve great Chinese food at a sensible price. “The Majestic” is perched on top of a headland, overlooking the 2 mile sweep of Douglas bay, so try asking for a window table when you book – the evening view is very special.

And talking about Chinese restaurants, we have discovered a small one not 400 yards from our home. We’ve not tried it yet, but we certainly will (and I’ll let you know how it goes). One of the things we have discovered over the years is to never be put off by the size of a restaurant. Often there are true gems to be found hidden away in small side streets and we’re hoping this will prove to be one of them.

One of the pleasures of being on The Isle of Man is the lamb! The butcher that we use is A1 BUTCHERS, 7 Snaefell Road, Willaston, Douglas (01624.627200) and they serve only Manx lamb that has grazed on the heather-covered hills, adding a light, delicate flavour to the meat.

Stewey and Tommy sell the finest lamb chops we have ever tasted (they also do a great line in cooked ham, but that’s another story!). The lamb chops are juicy, tender, full of flavour and we have yet to find their equal. Just cook in a frying pan with a few cloves of garlic until they are browned on the outside and pink in the middle (about 6-7 minutes)… truly a delight.

Peel castle across the baySo we have one more month on ‘The Island’ before heading back to France for Christmas and the New Year. Right at the moment (despite what you see on the photo) the sun is shining, the sky is blue and I reckon it’s time for a nice walk over the top of the cliff with a view of Peel bay and castle … sometimes I think we are very lucky people!

 

Zee best in zee world

Oyster stall at CancalEarlier this year we spent a few days in Brittany with our two French grandchildren. During the trip, we visited Cancale, which lies along the coast to the east of Saint-Malo. It is a picturesque fishing village popular with visitors, many of whom are drawn by its reputation as the “oyster capital” of Brittany. On the sea front there are many stalls selling crustaceans of all types – all fresh out of the sea. I’ve never seen so many oysters of so many different shapes, colours and sizes.

While we were there, we went into a shop owned by one of life’s “characters”! Everything we looked at was ‘the best in the world’… “Ah, zat box of snail shells, ‘ee iz zee best in zee world!” (Actually the guy was speaking French, but I’m sure you get the gist!!)

Well, it seems to have worked because we walked out clutching a bag of ‘goodies’ and were about 100 euros lighter in our pockets! However, one of the things we came away with was a small packet of Court Bouillon Marin (marine fish stock – and that’s a very loose translation!). I used it once and it was truly excellent, it really does add all the flavours of the sea to the fish. According to the packet, all it contains is sea salt, seaweed and herbs, but I can promise you, it really is “zee best in zee world”.

If your French is good enough, you can order this Court Bouillon Marin from the family that makes it… http://www.lehomedys.com/saveur.php. It’s perfect for (as the name implies) a court bouillon, but also for mussels, fish soup, or any sort of fish or crustacean.

SamphireSo, tonight, we’re going to be eating halibut, cooked in Court Bouillon Marin, and I’m really looking forward to it. However, we also bought some samphire (one of the salicornia species, also known as glasswort or pickleweed). If you’re not familiar with samphire, it is a succulent, salt tolerant plant that grows in salt marshes, on beaches, and among mangroves. Salicornia species can generally tolerate immersion in salt water and it is highly edible, either cooked or raw. Due to its high salt content, it must be cooked without any salt added, in plenty of water. It has a hard stringy core, and after cooking, the edible flesh is pulled off from the core. This flesh, after cooking, resembles seaweed in color, and the flavor and texture are like young spinach stems or asparagus… truly worth looking forward to with a nice crisp Chablis!

La Petite Rôtisserie

So – was it Salade des Gourmets or not???

Well, believe it or not, I was able to resist and, for a starter, I went for the Salade de Caille et Magret de Canard (Salad of Quail and Lean Duck Breast). Deeee-licious! Now I have two favourites to choose from! What’s a man to do, I ask?

La Petite Rôtisserie is living up to its reputation. The food, the service and the wines were just perfect. Starting with a little apperitif (M-D takes an Americano and I take a Cocktail Maison), diners are given plenty of time to study the menu and the wine list before having to choose. As a main course, M-D took Rognons de Veau (Veal Kidneys) which were cooked to perfection. I took a fillet steak, rare, with a sauce of Bleu d’Auvergne (a blue cheese from the Auvergne region of France). These were accompanied simply by a few sautéed potatoes and mushrooms… very simple but very effective.

We followed up with cheese from the amazing selection that they keep here. I took some Pont-l’Évêque, some Chaource and some Bleu d’Auvergne (yeah, I know, I’d already had that with my steak!). Nadine (the restaurant owner) keeps her cheese in perfect condition and the Chaource just melted on my plate (as, indeed, it should!).

Dessert (which follows the cheese in France) was, for me, an aumônière which, literally translated means a purse or sack. In fact, it’s ice cream wrapped in a crèpe (thin pancake) and tied with a strip of orange peel, the whole thing sitting on a bed of thick chocolate sauce, sprinkled with crushed almonds. Ooooo – I can still taste it!

And all of this was washed down with a 2001 St Julien. The wines of St Julien are the epitome of Bordeaux. Sandwiched as it is between Pauillac to the north, and Margaux to the south, this small commune still makes a huge contribution to the wines of Bordeaux, with a distinctive and elegant style and the promise of consistency which is perhaps unrivalled by its neighbours.

Well – we enjoyed it anyway!!

Confit for all

I just finished posting Confit de Canard (Duck Confit) to the site and it reminds me how lucky we are to spend six months of the year in France. You see, we can get tins of confit from the local shops without having to go through the arduous process of making it. In fact, it’s so common that you can get it in most restaurants without paying the earth. Mind you, the prices can vary quite a lot because there’s quite a difference between the mass-produced commercial production and the more intimate ‘artisan’ producers. For that reason, we buy ours by mail order from Godard in Gourdon in the south-west of the country… and it is quite delicious.

Whenever we travel back to the Isle of Man by car (usually once a year) we always take back a supply of stuff (like confit) that we can’t get in Britain. We also have a habit of weighing the car down with wine, since it is so much cheaper (and better selection) in France. We will be going to the local wine fayre in a couple of weeks. That’s always good fun… it’s an evening of tasting of up to about 100 different wines, and the sellers are all determined that you should taste their wine, so there’s no ducking out after 10 or so! Must remember to book the taxi!

And talking of wine, M-D and I were just deciding what to pull out of the cellar for her daughter’s 40th birthday (coming soon). I noticed we had several bottles of Cote de Beaune Villages 1971, Chateau La Fleur 1975, and an absolutely stunning deep red wine called Chateau de Cayrou (1989 and 1990).

Maybe it’s time to pull out the Cote de Beaune Villages 1971 … same year as my daughter-in-law! It should be ready for drinking any time soon!

Anyway, it’s La Petite Rôtisserie tomorrow night. Let’s see if I can resist the temptation to take Salade Gourmet as a starter. There are so many good things on the menu, it seems a shame not to work my way through the whole list!

The End of Summer

While the UK (and the poor old Isle of Man) is suffering from 80mph (130kph) winds and floods, here in France, the weather is a very pleasant 27C with just a gentle cooling breeze to take the edge off the heat. But even so, I sense that the summer is coming to an end. The birds are circling and the fields are being harvested (us country folk know about things like that!)

Caesar SaladMeanwhile we’re making the best of what good weather we still have. We’re eating salads like Caesar Salad or Salade Niçoise at lunch time and simple fayre in the evenings like Chicken and Ham Soup or Leek and Smoked Salmon Rolls

Often the simplest of meals are the most satisfying. M-D and I have just had a salad that was nothing more than a cooked chicken breast and Marinated Carrot Salad.Simple, yet tasty and filling (and very few of those nasty calories!). I just finished adding a recipe to the site for Roast Belly Pork Dinner. Now that’s serious comfort food! But maybe I can wait till those dark winter evenings!

M-D is busy planning for our return to the Isle of Man in about 3 weeks. She’s digging out all sorts of stuff that we have duplicated here in France (like a wok, for example) and creating a “heap” for us to take with us. We’ll be going by car this time, so we can carry lots of stuff (including the obligatory cases of wine!).

Until August we lived in a small apartment when we were on the Isle of Man. However, we decided that we needed somewhere bigger since our families are always made welcome. Within six weeks we had found the right house, bought it, moved in and rented out the apartment! But it took a bit of a toll on us physically and mentally so we came back to France for a rest.

Now it’s time to go back and sort out everything we didn’t manage to get done before – like a couple of extensions to the phone line and a desk each and…. a wok, it seems!

Salad Days

I got thinking about seafood today. That’s my problem … I see food and I eat it! And I reminded myself of an outstanding starter I did a while back. You can read all about it at Prawn Perfection. The problem is that I wanted to do it for my brother and my sister-in-law when we go back to the Isle of Man (they’re great at looking after the house for us, and a meal together to say ‘thank you’ is the least we can do).

Salade GourmandeSadly, I remembered that Jeanette is allergic to prawns (last time she ate them, apparently she glowed like a traffic light for days after) so I have to come up with something a bit different. And then I remembered Salade des Gourmets which is seriously one of the best starters of all time. In fact, we’re going to our favourite restaurant tomorrow evening (La Petite Rôtisserie – 65, chemin de Halage, 95610 Eragny, France) and without doubt I’ll be tempted…

Life in France ticks along as usual. It’s no more exotic than anywhere else, but I do confess to enjoying the food culture. Mind you, it doesn’t always work that way. Last weekend, M-D and I went into Paris to meet up with a couple of her cousins and their partners. We arranged to meet at a restaurant called “Le Dalou” in Place de la Nation and have lunch there. This turned out to be less than average. Those of us who had steaks found them overcooked (not normally a fault in France) and my French Onion Soup was luke warm and tasteless. Probably we could have lived with that if the bill hadn’t arrived totalling 350 euros – that’s 50 euros each ($70 or £45). We left declaring “never again” for that particular establishment.

Hopefully tomorrow night will be different. I’ll keep you informed!