Category Archives: Duck

Old friends, new adventures

lock on Canal St MartinTwo of our good friends from the Isle of Man came to visit us a few days go. This is not Penny or Steve’s first trip to Paris by a long way, so Marie-Danielle and I scratched our heads as to what we could find that would amuse them. Then it came to us… Steve and Penny both like boats and have enjoyed several barge holidays on British canals so what better than to discover a different aspect of Paris in an unusual way, idling down the Canal St Martin through a series of nine locks, two swing bridges, and a 2 mile long tunnel that passes under the Bastille. Problem solved. For 2½ hours, we lazed our way through an almost unknown Paris without a care in the world.

Parmentier de CanardWe’ve wined and dined with Steve and Penny on many occasions, so wanted to come up with something a little different. On their arrival on the Sunday, we did a simple Parmentier de Canard (a shepherd’s pie using duck instead of lamb). In fact, this is a bit of a cheat because we use Confit de Canard which we can obtain easily here in France. All I needed to do was drain the fat from the duck, remove the skin, and pull the flesh with a fork. I peeled and chopped some shallots, browned them gently in some of the duck fat, added some chopped parsley and a little seasoning, then covered with mashed potatoes. A bit of oven time and we ate like kings and queens!

2002 Chateau MartetSteve is a big fan of red wine (so are we!) and duck demands a decent full-bodied red. A few weeks ago, we celebrated some family birthdays and discovered half-a-dozen bottles of dusty but interesting-looking 2002 Chateau Martet. The wine was truly wonderful and, since there remained a few more bottles, we grabbed hold of some to go with the Parmentier de Canard. An excellent choice. A marriage made in heaven even!

Monk Fish Steak with SaffronOn the Monday, when we had our day out on the Canal St. Martin, we ate in a little restaurant in the Latin Quarter of Paris. Tuesday, we dined at home and I prepared Monk Fish Steaks with Saffron, a delightful feast of colour, taste and smell. In addition to creamed potatoes, I braised some fennel which complemented the fish. And to help the meal down, we pulled some bottles of Pouilly Fumé from the cellar.

A great few days with some great friends.

A new Duck Discovery

If you have followed this blog, you’ll know that my wife, Marie-Danielle, is French and that we live in France for half of the year. So I am ‘exposed’ to the delights of French cuisine more than most people.

Recently, Marie-Danielle’s daughter and her family came up from near Orleans to celebrate two birthdays (both of which had already passed!). So what do you give to five French foodies? M-D came up with the answer and it was something I had never heard of before… a Pithiviers de Canard (or what I christened, a Luxury Duck Pie). This is a pie that includes such gastronomic delights as duck breast and foie gras. But add to that a little sausage meat, some cream, whisky, onions and parsley, and suddenly you have a whole new delight on your taste buds.

Pithiviers de CanardThe recipe for this tasty treat is at Pithiviers de Canard and it’s ridiculously easy to make. Until you try it, you’ll never understand the stunning combination of flavours that make this ‘pie’ something rather special.

2002 Chateau MartetAnd what do you drink with a Pithiviers de Canard? Good question, and we raided the wine cellar to find some dusty but interesting-looking bottles of 2002 Chateau Martet – a cheeky little Merlot that complimented our ‘Luxury Duck Pie’ perfectly.

We had to let it breath for well over an hour before it became drinkable, but once it had oxygenated, it was a truly stunning accompaniment to the Pithiviers de Canard

Summer Pudding RecipeAfter a nibble of various cheeses, we ended up with something light and refreshing – one of our old favourites – Summer Pudding

A pleasant evening of good food, good wine and good company. What more can you ask for?


Paradise is Godard’s shop!

Godard's is full of epicurian joy!We have had to make several trips to Gourdon a medieval village inside the Quercy-Périgord region of South-West France, to deal with Marie-Danielle’s father’s estate. Usually this involves visits to the notary, dealing with the disposal of assets etcetera. But one thing that makes it worthwhile is our pigrimage to Godard, the best producer of regional specialities. Located in Gourdon, the family business is entirely dedicated to providing the best of the best. Always in accordance with the very finest quality and authenticity, they elaborate the best quality raw products from the region: foie gras, regional specialities, confits, pâtés and ready made-meals.

Marie-Danielle starts to fill her basketGodard have several shops in the region, and one in Paris, but their production facility, located on the D673 a couple of miles outside Gourdon, on the road to Salviac is the real treasure. There, you can browse shelves of epicurean passion and I can guarantee you will not walk out empty-handed.

You can order from Godard on line, but nothing beats eyeballing all those delights. There are often a few bargains to take advantage of when you visit the shop yourself. Don’t worry if your French is a bit rough, there’s always an English-speaking member of staff available.

Terry’s Secret Treat!

I noticed a while back that our neighbour on the Isle of Man, Terry, was due for a birthday on January 3rd. Being a sharp-eyed individual, I also spotted that the 3rd fell on a Saturday this year. What better excuse for a party!! So I quiety contacted Terry’s wife, Julie, and we arranged to hijack his evening with a meal at ours. We also invited Kate and Dominic who are close neighbours. This is the “team” that M-D and I refer to as “The Big Six”… Terry, Julie, Kate, Dominic, M-D and myself! In fact, Julie and Kate were friends when they were young then, just a few years ago, discovered that they were living on opposite sides of the same street! Small world.

Christmas WreathWhat we didn’t know when we planned to hijack Terry’s birthday was that it was Julie’s birthday on 31st December. And what they didn’t know (until M-D told them) was that it’s mine on 6th January. So you can imagine that the aperitif was more alcoholic than normal (and normal is pretty good!). We repeated a little fun presentation that we had done at Christmas by making a sausage wreath out of cocktail sausages and that buttery, flaky, Vienna-style pastry used to make croissants. The bow was a red pepper that underwent M-D’s surgical skills and the bowl in the middle held Dijon mustard for dipping. It seemed to be well appreciated since it disappeared at a rapid rate of knots (is that a nautical term?).

Millefeuille de PintadeOur starter for the meal was a combination of Millefeuille de Pintade au Foie de Canard and Roulades de Jambon au Foie de Canard en Gelée au Sauternes. We get these (as you can see from the links) from an excellent supplier called Godard in the Perigord region of France. Washed down with a glass of Château Haut-Theulet Monbazillac 2002 (the colour of golden straw), this was a perfect starter for a great meal.

Two Excellent WinesFor the main course, we repeated a dish that had served us well at Christmas – Beef Wellington. This time, there were no problems with timing as there were on Christmas Eve. I correctly guessed that our guests would be happy with meat that was less cooked than I had done at Christmas and “the beast” arrived on the table in good time and in good shape and was helped down with a glass or three of Château de Sarenceau Saint-Emilion 2000 which we served right through the rest of the meal. And then came the famous Trou Normand – sorbet with calvados poured over the top – to help our digestion (I think!).

After the cheeses, we served Gâteau Creusois with M-D’s hand made Chocolate Mousse which is actually very simple to make, but very tasty. And another pleasant evening ended with happy campers all round. Cooking is fun, but the joy it brings to others is even better!

Back to The Rock and meeting up with old friends

Removing a false wallI headed back to the Isle of Man on my own towards the end of June because I had some work to do in our bedroom, so it was easier having the place to myself and not disrupting Marie-Danielle too. When we bought the house on the island, the builder who had renovated it had generally done a good job but, on a couple of things, he had taken shortcuts. One of these shortcuts was that there was water penetration on the top storey and damp was coming through the walls into our bedroom. The builder had tried to hide this by adding a couple of false stud walls with a 4″ (100mm) gap to the outside wall. Naturally, this was just a short-term cover-up and, In August last year (2013) we had scaffolding erected and roofers arrived to resolve the situation. So now it was time to rip out the false wall and let the original wall breathe.

Don't block the access!DIY tip #153
Before storing your furniture under the loft access while you do repair work to the bedroom, be sure to get the sander (stored in the attic) that you will need to finish the work !!!

A week of work and the place was as good as new (or better!). Then, when M-D arrived, she came with her sister, Christine, who lives in Lille in Northern France. Christine has been over to the island before and she enjoys it’s beauty and tranquility. So, while she was here, we invited our friends Bruno and Jill to join us for an evening meal. Bruno is also French and I think he enjoyed an opportunity to relax and hold a conversation in his native language.

When I travelled over, I had brought with me several duck breasts (Magre de Canard) which are taken from the ducks that are used to produce foie gras so are really plump and succulent. These seemed to be well appreciated so, a few weeks later, we asked two sets of our near neighbours over and repeated the excercise. Such was the success that Julie (our actual next-door neighbour) asked us to bring her back some Magre when we plan to return in December with the car.

Christine and M-D up in the hillsWhile Christine was over, we did a few walks and a bit of casual sightseeing. The location in the photo on the left is in the south of the island and, on that day, we could clearly see Scotland, England, Wales and Ireland from that spot. It makes you realise how central The Isle of Man is in the British Isles and Ireland.

We also visited a few of the local restaurants (as you do!). Christine loves the food at The Majestic Restaurant on Onchan Head, overlooking Douglas Bay and, indeed, it is an excellent Chinese restaurant. We also like The Boat Yard on the quayside in Peel, so naturally, we went there too! Oh, and let’s not forget The Swiss House at Glen Helen who do an awesome “surf and turf”!

Mireille Champseix-LeonardThen, in August, we housed a couple of French visitors for a week. Twice a year, the Isle of Man becomes home to bikers from all over the world. In June, they come for the Isle of Man TT and in August they come for the Isle of Man Festival of Motorcycling (used to be called The Manx Grand Prix). During thoise times, the population of the island doubles so, local people help out by offering rooms to bikers at a sensible price. It’s fun and it helps the island economy.

Serge LeonardWe got to meet and greet Mimie Champseix-Léonard and her husband, Serge. A real nice couple from Tarnac in the Limousin region of France. Though they seemed to enjoy exploring the various watering holes on the island, I think they were quite pleased when we asked them to have dinner with us on their final night before heading back to France!

So that’s another summer gone! I don’t know how we stand the pace, sometimes. Oh well, back to France and see what’s going on over there!

Veal and Duck ….. Mmmmmmm!

Grenadin de Veau GratinéLast week, while M-D’s sister, Christine, was with us, one of the meals we served was Grenadin de Veau Gratiné which comprises medallions of veal about 1″ (2.5cm) thick, served with a sauce of white wine, cream and cheese… and it is truly delicious!

As I have said many times, simplicity is the key to nearly all French cooking and there’s not much that is easier than this. Simply pan-cook the veal then degalze the pan with wine, stir in the cream and grated cheese, and it tastes like heaven. We served it with duchess potatoes and broad beans.

Magre de CanardAt the weekend, we went up to Lille, where Christine lives and she trumped our Grenadin de Veau Gratiné with Magre de Canard (it’s not really a question of trying to outdo each other, because both recipes are drop-dead simple). Magre de Canard is duck breast – nothing more and nothing less. However, Christine roasted it and served it with a green pepper sauce and accompanied by sautée potatoes. It was more than splendid, it was rapture on a plate (and I ate far more than I should!)

Roubaix swimming pool museumWhile we were in Lille, we visited the Roubaix swimming pool museum. This is the most amazing place, and has made use of a beautiful old Art Deco swimming pool that was due for demolition due to safety problems.

Originally built between 1927 and 1932, the swimming pool had served the people of Roubaix for over fifty years and the locals were very fond of their pool. Yet the health and safety issues meant that it could no longer be used for that purpose. Thinking laterally, why not make it in to a museum? So that’s what they did, and the result is truly stunning. If ever you are in the region, you should pay a visit – you’ll not be disappointed. Or, if you can’t get there, at least take a virtual look at this stunning place

Tomorrow night, our “nephew-in-law” is coming for dinner. Steve live in Canada but is sometimes in Europe on business. We tried to get together last time he was over, but it didn’t quite work out. This time we planned ahead! Nothing fancy planned, just good old favourites, Julie’s Salmon & Prawn with Lime followed by Confit de Canard and ending on M-D’s specialty, Citrus Parfait. Looking forward to it!

Between a rock and a hard place!

So this is our final week on “The Rock” before heading back to France. It’s been a short stay this time and the weather has been dreadful with rain most days. Hope it’s not an omen for the summer! Last year we had a thoroughly splendid summer and we went walking almost every day. Unless something changes soon, this summer could be a washout, just like 2012.

Monk Fish in bacon with parsley cream sauceBy way of marking our return to France, we invited our friends and neighbours, Terry, Julie, Dominic and Kate to dinner last night. We kicked off in normal style with a glass or two of Kir, using a rather nice Chardonny that had travelled back with us in January. When we settled at the table, we started with Monk Fish in Bacon with Parsley Cream which we haven’t done for a little while, but never fails to please. It’s light, tasty and visually pleasing, so it easily meets all the right criteria. We served the same Duc de Morny 2012 Picpoul de Pinet that we have served a couple of times recently. It’s light and fresh and it’s a wine that won the Medaille d’Or in the 2013 Agricultural and Food show in Paris.

Confit de CanardAfter which, we resorted to one of our regular favourites, Confit de Canard and although it may seem that we are “over-relying” on this, having eaten it a few weeks ago, we are conscious that it is simply not available in provincial Britain so, while we may be used to it, our guests always seem pleased to have it placed in front of them. As usual, we served it in traditional French style, simply with a potato/mushroom mix. For this, we prepare Sautée Potatoes but we add cepes and/or porcino mushrooms (same family – Boletus edulis, commonly known as penny bun). The secret is to gently cook the mushrooms on their own first, to remove the water and then mix them into the potatoes at the last moment.

One of the joys of this main course is that just about everything can be prepared beforehand and then quickly warmed just before serving. I leave the stove on very low beneath the potatoes and the confit while we eat our starter. Then, I return to the kitchen turn up the heat, flip the confit so it is skin-side down (important to get that skin nice and crispy!) and it’s ready to serve in just a few minutes. We served it with a Gaillac – a Chateau d’Escabes 2008. This lovely ruby-coloured red wine from just north of Toulouse has an intense ‘nose’ of red fruits, spices and vanilla while remaining silky in the mouth. It worked well both during the main course and the cheese that followed.

Orange SlicesOur dessert was a chocolate and nut gateau that M-D had made using walnuts from her daughter’s garden in The Loire region of France. We served this with orange slices sprinked with orange zest that had been cooked in cinnamon sugar and, just to give a contrast, we mixed normal oranges and blood oranges as we arranged them on the plate. Naturally, there being plenty of chocolate in the cake, we served Mas Amiel with its dense and concentrated inky black Grenache grapes and its complex nose of tobacco and garden herbs.

Coffee and chocolates took us into the wee hours until we finally crashed and left the washing up until today – lovely getting up to a mess, isn’t it! What was lovely, however, was spending a few hours in good company. We all know each other well enough now to simply be ourselves and not worry about being politically correct or having to choose our words with care. So an evening of good food, good company and good conversation seems like the ideal way to once again leave The Rock and head back to La Belle France.

We’ll be back!

 

That good old Confit de Canard

Last Saturday evening we enjoyed the company of Steve and Penny who live about 100 metres down the road, along with Steve and Jeanette (my brother and sis-in-law). Penny is a pharmacist at the local hospital and was on call, so had to curtail her alcohol intake to virtually zero. Unfortunately, Steve (not brother) is a pilot, so he’s away quite a lot and last Saturday was the only time their diaries and ours coincided!

We started with our current favourite, Julie’s Salmon & Prawn with Lime. It really is so simple but so delicious. It’s one of those recipes made in heaven! We’re always aware that Jeanette, my sister-in-law, is alergic to crustaceans, so make sure that the salmon and prawns never touch during the preparation. It also means, of course that her salad is missing one of the ingredients, but it’s wonderfully delicious nonetheless! We served this great starter with a Duc de Morny 2012 Picpoul de Pinet which is a wine that won the Medaille d’Or in the 2013 Agricultural and Food show in Paris (a rare accolade).

confit de canard duckFor the main course, we took an easy option (for us) and served Confit de Canard with a mixture of Sautée Potatoes and Cepes (penny bun or porcino mushrooms). It’s easy for us because we bring from France big tins of Confit and also tins of Cepes. So peeling and cooking a few potatoes is no hardship. However, for our friends who would not normally get to eat confit, it’s something different and fun – particularly when served with a bottle or two of Château La Caze Bellevue, a smooth, velvety 2010 Saint Emilion!

Orange CarpaccioAfter a selection of cheeses (with a little more St Emilion!), dessert was a Gâteau Creusois and a Carpaccio d’Oranges à la Cannelle (Orange slices with cinnamon). Together, a nice simple, refreshing and tasty way to finish the meal (particularly since it took a new bottle of Saint Emilion to help it go down!).

Damage on Douglas PromenadeMeanwhile, a combination of storms and high tides has given The Island a real pounding with many of the sea walls damaged, some shops and homes flooded and everybody huddled indoors waiting for summer! Fortunately, the island is hilly, so we don’t get many places where water lays on the land for long periods such as they are experiencing in Somerset.

castletown2robinwootton_500x333However, all’s well that ends well because Penny is coming round tomorrow night to help us finish the raclette ingredients that we had with Terry and Julie last week! We have just enough for three people, Steve’s away and Penny’s not on call, so it sounds like a good excuse to dig into the wine cellar and see what’s available – I love it when a plan comes together! Who cares about the weather?

Duck, duck and the best apple flan I’ve ever eaten!

A couple of months ago, we enjoyed looking round various locations in the local “WOSAT” (Western Open Studio Art Trail) at 10 open studios featuring 46 local artists in 8 venues here on the Isle of Man. We saw some lovely work in different styles, using different techniques and materials and, during our travels, we bumped into a very talented artist called Bruno Cavellec (whose website can be seen at http://www.brunocavellec.com/ )

Walking the Dogs by Bruno CavellecFirst of all, the name Cavellec is typically Breton (from Brittany on France’s Atlantic coast). Secondly, Bruno was a really approachable guy with an easy-going manner and a contageous smile. Third, being French, he and Marie-Danielle could stop talking English for a few minutes and relax into their own language. And fourth, I fell in love with (and bought a copy of) his giclée print “Walking the Dogs” that shows Peel beach at sunset. This one is going back to France with us at the end of August and I know exactly where I shall hang it once it’s been framed.

Quite by chance, we bumped into Bruno a couple of times whilst out walking and enjoying the exceptionally sunny weather. So we thought it would be nice to get to know him better and get to meet his English wife, Jill… sounds like a perfect recipe for a “French” evening (food, wine, good conversation, more food, more wine – yawn, “Good grief is that really the time?”). So yesterday evening we shared a truly pleasant few hours together until we got to the “Good grief is that really the time?” moment!

To begin, we did what every couple of “mixed nationality” do, and swapped stories about how we met our partners. It’s not being nosey – it’s just what we do, because there’s nearly always a nice story there somewhere! Naturally, as we did that, we quaffed a few glasses of chilled Prosecco that Jill and Bruno had kindly brought with them. It’s a beautiful, light and dry Italian sparkling wine that uninitiated people like me can very easily mistake for champagne!

Bruno had told us that Jill liked duck, so what could be more natural than to start the meal with foie gras accompanied by an onion compote. Bruno was happy – he thought he was back in France! Jill was happy because it was duck! M-D was happy because she loves foie gras! And I was happy because all I had to do was open the jar!

Confit de CanardAnd, if it’s worth doing, it’s worth overdoing, so we carried on with the duck theme and served Confit de Canard for the main course. Confit is difficult to get wrong but, for reasons still unknown, the skin of the duck didn’t brown as it should (it’s normally lovely and crisp). While it tasted just as it should, I was disappointed with the presentation. So, when in doubt, what do you do? Why, you pour another glass of wine! We managed to see off a couple of bottles of 2009 Chateau Lamothe-Vincente which lessened the blow a little!

After the cheese, we arrived at the moment of dessert and Bruno had made a gateau aux pommes – apple flan – that was truly brilliant. I asked him for the recipe which he told me was top secret, so I tied him to the chair and poured wine down his throat until he relented and you can read it here…“Double Take” Apple Flan.

I’m not usually a huge apple fan but this was honestly the best apple flan I have ever eaten. It was light, tasty, sumptuous and I immediately voted it the dessert most likely to brighten your day. Truly a masterpiece – much like Bruno’s paintings.

A pleasant evening in good company and the best apple flan I’ve ever eaten! – Can’t be all bad!

Losing weight!

I’m supposed to be losing weight! I’ve been trying to do so for close on one year! So here we are, just a few hours away from moving the clocks back and getting an extra hour in bed (hooray!) and my weight hasn’t changed significantly for the last 6 months. It’s dreadful how time just stips by without us noticing. However, we have been gastronomically busy, so we’ve enjoyed the passing of the days.

salade gourmandeLast Saturday evening, we had a dinner for six of us. In addition to M-D and myself, there was Loius and Monique who live close by and keep an eye on the apartment here while we are on The Isle of Man, Jean-Luc who was a neighbour until recently, and is now living in Brittany and Pascale, a new neighbour who bought his apartment from him. We decided to keep it simple so I produced that gastronomic delight, Salade des Gourmets as a starter (which always goes down well, no matter what). It looks complicated, but it’s not, and was well appreciated by our guests. The use of a vinagrette made of raspberries and the fact that the scallops and prawns are served warm makes it a unique eating experience.

confit de canard duckWe followed up with a traditional French dish, Confit de Canard with Cepes and Sautée Potatoes. Of course, we’re lucky here because we can get very good quality Confit out of a tin, so no sweating over a hot stove for hours of preparation!

Of course, having a good wine to help everything down (is that a technical term??) does no harm either and we had taken a couple of bottles (well, three actually!) of Chateau Berliquet 2002 – a St Emilion – out of the cellar. Added to the two bottles of Vranken Special Brut Champagne as a little apperitif before the meal, we were all quite mellow by the time it came to serving cheese and then M-D’s famous “Orange and Lime Parfait” for a dessert. I keep trying to persuade her to put the recipe on the site, but so far I’ve not succeeded!

Tonight will be different! M-D’s daughter, Muriel, (who cooks all my favourite stuff) is bringing our grandchildren up from Orleans to stay for a few days. Muriel is stopping overnight with us, so it’s going to be a “Happy Sushi” night (little Japanese resaurant over the road). The last time we were at Muriel’s (just a couple of weeks ago) she prepared a “duck cottage pie” (that’s the nearest I can explain it!). It was the famous Confit de Canard, shredded at the bottom of a large dish and topped with mashed potato that had been cooked in their skins and then peeled. There were eight of us at the table and it disappeared in minutes! Allowing for some delightful apperitifs, a starter of foie gras, the cheeses (one of which smelt like old socks and tasted like heaven!) and Clémence’s chocolate Brownie (not to mention some excellent wines), I went home weighing about 10 pounds heavier!

Losing weight in France is, I have decided, impossible!